Nonstop Surf – Rincon is set to go off!

The most recent coldfront has dipped off the states at a lower latitude and should give us a nice run of swell. The current NE swell should last through the rest of the weekend and into early next week. The angle isn’t the best for Rincon, but the period is moderate enough to keep some waist to chest high surf on tap. Tuesday might be fairly small. On Wednesday and Thursday expect a decent sized NNW swell to fill in with some overhead surf. The angle should be good to get a lot of the nooks and crannies working. The winds should be rather calm the entire time too which should open up a lot of opportunities for surf spots every morning. The weather has been refreshingly cool at night and in the morning. That is such a relief after the brutal heat of the summer that seemed like it would never end.

Plenty of weather over the water to keep the surf coming!

The weather is finally cooling off at night and the mornings have been refreshingly cool. We’ve been getting waves fairly consistently and happiness has been restored to acceptable levels for just about everyone over here. I certainly hope this pattern keeps up. We’ve had a great October so far surf-wise. Tomorrow is looking like the smallest day of the week with some knee to waist high leftovers, but you still might see some chest high sets roll in. Another high latitude storm will have a ton of high pressure build-in behind it which should give us another round of swell. Look for the surf to be on the rise starting from Thursday and last through Saturday. The northerly fetch looks decent on the weather models and we should see a slightly longer period (by a second or two) than this past swell event. This means we’ll hopefully have a just a little less wobble in the waves. The wind is supposed to be more dominant from the east so the west facing side of Rincon should be well groomed. Here’s the short version:

Wednesday: Knee to waist high leftovers glassy in the morning.
Thursday: Waist to chest and glassy in the morning building to head high plus by the end of the day.
Friday: Head high and glassy in the morning and at all west facing spots with wind protection later in the day.
Saturday: Chest high and conditions similar to Friday.
Sunday: Waist high glassy leftovers.

Get Ready to Surf! Hurricane Edouward Blows Up!

In an earlier post I was complaining about the strong windshear and dry air in the Northern Atlantic. Well this storm survived the gauntlet and found him self in a low shear and high ocean heat on the other side of the wind shear force field. The result – Hurricane Edouward may become the first (and possibly only) major hurricane of the 2014 Atlantic Season. This is a real Hurricane people. A solid wind-field, low pressure dropping by the minute, and nothing but open water around him. He will give some parts of Puerto Rico almost an entire week of waves.

What Kind of Surf to Expect:

Rincon: Hurricane Edouward is not predicted to pass 60 degrees West so NW swell is out of the picture. His movement will throw most of his swell everywhere but Rincon. The swell is mainly from the ENE to NE angle, but the period is forecast to be in the 12-14 second range. Rincon can expect to have some glassy waist to chest waves with some head high sets mid-week with fading conditions through Friday.

Aguadilla/Isabela: You will be on fire! As early as Tuesday expect head high plus surf with glassy conditions every morning. The winds may stay light most of the day and glass off again at night. The swell will pretty much rage through the week after that with some double overhead surf at some spots. Smaller leftovers will probably linger through the weekend.

Arecibo, San Juan, and Fajardo: Pretty much the same forecast as Aguadilla/Isabela area except you will see the swell sooner. You will also get the brunt of the swell so a lot of places will be working!

Check the automated model forecast below using my custom viewer. It updates itself every model run to keep you up-to-date on the predicted swell.