What A beautiful storm! More swell for surfing Puerto Rico.

Not only is that low setup right in our swell window, it actually dipped hard south – like straight down as it amplified and high pressure is building in behind it. This will keep a fetch going across a lot of the Atlantic and the swell should continue to rage. And in the long range we have a really strong late season winter storm crossing the states as we speak. We’re set to have surf for quite a few days!

Here’s how I see it playing it out:

Tuesday: Double Overhead and Perfection fading to 2-3ft overhead by the evening.
Wednesday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with some bigger sets still in the water.
Thursday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with heavy winds later in the day.
Friday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with some double overhead sets.
Saturday: 2ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with smaller surf later in the day.
Sunday: Head high and glassy.
Monday: Chest high and glassy.

I like it when things change for the better – more surf on the way!

We have a nice setup to keep some waist high surf on our beaches for the next few days and through the weekend. Some days with the right tide will still see some chest high sets. Early next week we could possibly see another big swell. This season has been going great so far! I hope it keeps up.

Here’s how I see things playing out for surfing Rincon:

Wednesday – Chest high and glassy all morning everywhere in Rincon and fading through the day.
Thursday – Waist to Chest high and mushy at the most exposed breaks.
Friday – Waist high and glassy at the most exposed breaks.
Saturday – Waist to Chest high and glassy in the morning at just about every Rincon spot.
Sunday – Chest to Head high and glassy in the morning at the more exposed breaks.
Monday – Double overhead and powerful with clean conditions at protected spots.
Tuesday – Head high to a couple feet overhead and glassy fading fast through the day.

The surf just keeps coming!

Do the happy dance (if you have enough energy to do so after the run of swell we’ve had). We have plenty of waves on the way. The models are stalling the new swell by a day or two, but I still think we’ll see it show up by Thursday with some NW angle. We might just see a more gradual build instead of an instant arrival. The good news is that we shouldn’t go completely flat before it gets here. Wednesday should stay around chest to head high and the smallest Thursday should get is waist to chest before the new swell starts to trickle in. Friday will be overhead and crank all weekend before slowly fading out early next week. This is a wonderful forecast to write.

Plenty of weather over the water to keep the surf coming!

The weather is finally cooling off at night and the mornings have been refreshingly cool. We’ve been getting waves fairly consistently and happiness has been restored to acceptable levels for just about everyone over here. I certainly hope this pattern keeps up. We’ve had a great October so far surf-wise. Tomorrow is looking like the smallest day of the week with some knee to waist high leftovers, but you still might see some chest high sets roll in. Another high latitude storm will have a ton of high pressure build-in behind it which should give us another round of swell. Look for the surf to be on the rise starting from Thursday and last through Saturday. The northerly fetch looks decent on the weather models and we should see a slightly longer period (by a second or two) than this past swell event. This means we’ll hopefully have a just a little less wobble in the waves. The wind is supposed to be more dominant from the east so the west facing side of Rincon should be well groomed. Here’s the short version:

Wednesday: Knee to waist high leftovers glassy in the morning.
Thursday: Waist to chest and glassy in the morning building to head high plus by the end of the day.
Friday: Head high and glassy in the morning and at all west facing spots with wind protection later in the day.
Saturday: Chest high and conditions similar to Friday.
Sunday: Waist high glassy leftovers.

Tropical Storm Joaquin forms right in our swell window!

Right now he’s serving to keep the winds dead as a longer period NE swell fills in from a cold-front, but he could become so much more than that. The wind shear is supposed to lighten up tomorrow which would give Joaquin a chance to strengthen and get more organized. If he does that and gets a bigger/symmetrical windfield we could be looking at a nice setup for a week of perfect waves. Right now there is plenty of swell in the water to keep us surfing here in Rincon for another 2-3 days. If Tropical Storm Joaquin does get his act together during that time, his swell will blend right in and keep the surf going off! This is all best case scenario, but I’m so stoked right now I can’t help but give everyone a heads up.

Surprise! The Tropics Turn on in October

Whether or not this giant disturbance becomes a hurricane or not is kind of irrelevant. Unless it completely disintigrates it will make surf for Puerto Rico. The North coast of the island will get the brunt of the swell due to the angle and movement of the weather system. But it looks like Rincon will get enough of a wrap-around to stay fun all week into the weekend. I can’t believe that this giant beast chugged along through insane wind shear across the Atlantic only to park itself in our swell window which will actually be a considerably lighter shear environment for the storm.

Rincon: Expect waist to chest high NE swell and ENE wrap-around swell to come in from now through the weekend. Some pulses will be bigger as the weather system gets closer. Perfect longboard conditions will persist and some shortboard spots could be working as long as the wind plays nice. The winds are supposed to be pretty light for us pretty much the whole swell event.

Isabela/Aguadilla: You will be going off with plenty of head high surf at the usual prime spots. Some days will see some sets in the 2-4ft overhead range. The winds will be light, but they’re not currently forecast to blow hard South so you might have to look for wind blockage to get glassy conditions. You should have fun surf through the weekend into early next week.