More surf for Rincon, Puerto Rico.

Though nothing on the weather maps jumps out as anything major right now, the weather we have is sufficient to make some smaller scale surf for this week. Look for a bit of a pulse up in the surf tomorrow with some chest high surf at most breaks with bigger sets. After that we’ll have a lot of wind so the resulting swell will be very short period. I expect smaller and mushy conditions are the spots protected enough from the wind to be clean. It should still be surfable though. The weekend has been looking good on the models for the past few runs. Right now they look like the clean-up days after the wind fest. Looking at the next cold front sweeping the states, only a slight shift south in the track of the front and northern jet-stream could mean a major swell event in the long range forecast so that’s what I will be watching for. All in all this past October has been a great month for surfing Puerto Rico and November is looking to be fairly decent as well. I will try to update the forecast more often from here on out.

Once all of that mess gets worked out we’ll have surf again in Rincon.

The cold front is forecast to combine all of the random low pressures out there and push out to sea. High pressure should build in behind it and boom, your standard run of the mill weak coldfront swell. The models are currently calling for a slight NW angle on the surf that will roll into Rincon so the surf should be fun. For the weekend we will stay flat as a lake. Yes, we really can go from double overhead barrels to flat in one day. Granted, the coming cold front swell won’t be as epic as the long period Nicole swell. The surf should still be plenty of fun and offer some overhead surf. The swell should be here by mid-next week.

Hurricane Nicole will continue to send surf our way!

Wow what a storm! Even though she will be going extra-tropical over the next few days she will remain a massive weather system with heavy winds across much of the North Atlantic. Here’s what the NHC has to say about it:

Swells from Nicole will affect Bermuda and portions of the U.S. east coast and Atlantic Canada during the next couple of days. By early next week, wave models suggest that long-period swell from Nicole will radiate outward and affect much of the North Atlantic basin.

So basically, get ready to surf some more! The only downside to all of this is that the winds are forecast to stay out of the south which means that temperatures will be hot, hot, hot! However, as far as surf goes, it will be EPIC! A lot of north facing spots will be all time once again and a lot of the exposed spots on the north side of the island that can throw a barrel will be all-time. I hope to get some good coverage on this swell. Keep checking the galleries.

Hurricane Nicole Gives Us More Surf!

Enjoy the nonstop swell people. It’s been a long hot summer. Hurricane Nicole has just been sitting right in our swell window and strengthening. As the swell from the cold-front that ate Matthew fades out, we should have plenty of hurricane swell filling in. Expect conditions to remain overhead through the rest of the week and at least chest high over the weekend. Then next week we could see another round of long period swell when Nicole goes extra-tropical and merges with a cold front. What an amazing setup we have right now. Now go surf!

Hurricane Matthew finally goes out to sea – surf time!

It’s about time. Matthew went from a predicted path of maximum surf and minimal destruction to an actual path of maximum destruction and minimal surf. Now that he’s moving out to sea and absorbed in a cold front we can just think about the surf. Most of next week should go off! The first couple of days should be fairly big, and then fading leftovers in the fun chest high range for the rest of the week. I’m a little bummed we don’t get the Loopty Loop path, but to be honest the Loopty Loop is kind of a super rare occurrence and I never really had too much faith in it. Hope yes, faith no. The current forecast makes more sense and is a bit more reliable as a result. Get ready to surf your brains out! And if you’re flying in for the swell, book a photo shoot with me!

Hurricane Matthew and Hurricane Nicole – More Surf!

Hurricane Matthew is as big and strong as ever. Sorry Florida, you’re gonna get it bad. When the forecast track keeps shifing each model run, chances are that the actual track will follow the change in trend. FL is gonna get pounded. As far as surf is concerned, we should continue to see minor swell from both storms through the weekend. Yup! Nicole is now a hurricane. Hurricane Nicole is doing her little wiggle right on 65W so we should see some smaller surf generated from the north and northeast. Matthew swell will be WNW and fairly weak. Isabela will be the call for this weekend with dead winds or south winds and non-stop Nicole swell. Get your fix up there! The contest should have perfect waves the entire event.

If Matthew does the Loopty Loop we’ll have NW swell.

Check out that forecast path! The loopty loop is not the most common occurrence, but if it does happen we should see some solid swell. Granted, Matthew is forecast to be only a Tropical Storm at that point and the swell would be considerably bigger if he was still a major hurricane, but all of the models are calling for weakening. Look for Loopty Loop swell to fill in from Wednesday of next week through next weekend if it actually happens and Matthew is still organized at that point. We could see some EPIC NW swell.

Hurricane Matthew to make another round of surf after wreaking havoc on the East coast of FL.

Hurricane Matthew is still a large and powerful storm. He’s going to take a very very dangerous path for the Bahamas and the East Coast of FL. The shift to the west in his forecast track negatively affects his NW swell generation for us until later in the forecast period. We should still see some background swell in the waist high range over the next few days from his trek across the Bahamas. Late in the forecast period, do you notice that hook and swoop? That is what some top notch NW hurricane swell in the making looks like. That swoop is what it’s all about. Hope for the swoop! Next week could be EPIC if he maintains strength and does the swoop.

Tropical Storm Nicole forecast to drunkenly meander about the ocean – some surf possible.

Though not a very large or powerful storm, her motion around the 65W barrier means some smaller surf could make its way to PR. Especially since we should have dead winds or south winds through the weekend, the north coast of Puerto Rico should be fun for the rest of the week and all weekend! Head up to Isabela if Rincon isn’t big enough and you should be able to score some decent waves!

Hurricane Matthew, wow what a storm! More Surf?

This hurricane is for real! It’s not particularly common to have a storm maintain this much strength for such a long period of time. This storm is a beast. He’s forecast to remain a major hurricane for most of the week. This is good for surf. This is bad for Jamaica, Haiti, and Cuba. Though he is currently forecast to thread the needle up the channel in between Jamaica and Haiti, there’s no avoiding the extreme weather that comes with such a storm. Surf-wise, his trek heading up north will continue to push WSW swell up the Mona Passage at us and some very special spots on the south side of Puerto Rico should be firing. Once he passes cuba, some W to WNW swell should work its way to PR. Once he’s in Bahamas we should see some WNW to NW swell start to fill in. Once he’s off the coast of the Carolinas, we should see another push of NW swell. So far we’re looking to get a lot of surf from this storm.

Where did this little guy come from? 98L added to the mix for possible surf.

What this little weather system will actually do is extremely uncertain. However, with such calm winds to the north of us, this little guy could throw some ENE swell into the mix. He could also help give a double whammy of surf if he actually gets his act together a bit more and crosses the 65W boundary. There is a lot of heat in the ocean right now and not a lot of shear so anything is possible. So far, October is off to a great start for surfing Puerto Rico.

Hurricane Matthew Goes Cat 4! Surf?!?!

The short answer to that question is yes. We should get some SW swell creeping up through the Mona Passage. This will make most west facing beaches surfable. The size of the surf will really increase once Matthew starts moving North. Our real opportunity for surf is when that thing makes it north of Cuba and the Bahamas. If he stays in tact, we could see some NW swell go on for days. We’ll all have to just wait and see. Also, I really hope everyone in the path of this giant storm is alright through this whole ordeal. Jamaica, I really hope this storm doesn’t sink your beautiful island.

Will Tropical Storm Matthew give Rincon some surf afterall?

So far he seems to be sticking to the script. Though fighting with some heavy shear at the moment, he doesn’t seem to be dying off. In a couple of days he should be in an ideal environment for strengthening. This also means that some surf is possible in the next couple of days and possibly a whole lot more if he keeps his general L-shaped path. The first bit of waves would see is the general ENE wrap-around swell from the passing of the storm. After the storm passes to the west of us a SW kickback swell should start to shoot up the Mona Passage and make all Rincon spots break in reverse. It’s a sight to see. By mid to late next week we could see a steady round of WNW and NW swell for days if the storm does indeed head north. So long story short, we should see some smaller stormy surf in the short term with the possibility of an epic swell event in the long term. I hope it all works out. Also, sorry Jamaica, you might get destroyed.