September in November – Plenty of Surf for Puerto Rico

November Outlook: We have an ocean full of heat and a northern hemisphere trying desperately to cool off. Seasonally, we will start to see more fronts pull off the Eastern US this time of year. The high heat in the Atlantic combined with the unending march of tropical waves off Africa means that we will continue to see tropical disturbances from lower latitudes pulled north and interact with the frontal systems. The end result is a consistent flow of surf. Not the best quality of surf at times. Swell generated from multiple systems tend to make for challenging beach conditions when everything doesn’t line up just right, but hey – at least we’re not going to be flat. The tropics interacting with cold-fronts is generally a September type of scenario, but we’re seeing it happen right now at the end of October into the start of November. I honestly wouldn’t be surprised to see a hurricane form in December.

Near Term: Puerto Rico will continue to see smaller scale surf all week. The wind flow will most likely remain dead in the mornings and south in the afternoons. We can all hope for more rain in Rincon as satellite imagery is showing a lot of moisture on it’s way to the island. The tide sensitive spots will also be the best bet for getting a little more size throughout the background swell fluctuations. My advice is the mid-high to high incoming stretch at shallower breaks. Have fun!

Hurricane Lee Massive Storm, Massive Surf.

Now that’s what I call a windfield! It’s easy to get caught up in just the wind speed, the low pressure, or the category strength of a storm. Unfortunatley, all of that doesn’t matter much if the wind field is small. In the case of Hurricane Lee, such a large wind-field affects more of the ocean and as a result creates more swell in all directions. It is also not lacking in high wind, low pressure, and a major hurricane. What I’m getting at is today and tomorrow will most likely be double overhead and even bigger at more exposed locations. In other good news, as the storm moves away, we will have another 5 days or so of decent surf on the slow decline. Plenty of good sessions to be had. The other good news is that by that time we’ll be looking at the next long track storm with the next possible swell.

Hurricane Lee is About to Lay Some Massive Surf Down!

It’s September and we finally had a drop in the wind shear with a long track storm that pulled off Africa. With the insanely hot water temps, and no wind shear around, Hurricane Lee turned into a Category 5 Hurricane overnight. Intensity will fluctuate randomly from this point, but the wind-field will continue to expand and the eye of the storm will go through regular replacement cycles. The forecast path of the storm basically has it meandering right in our swell window. High surf advisories will be in effect. This swell is going to rage. I am pretty amped that we’ve had very consistent surf without the usual crowds that have destroyed my stoke the past few seasons. I got to surf a few days ago without having to dodge a single foam board. It was amazing. We should have literally a week of perfect waves (maybe longer) from this storm once the swell shows up. The north side of the island will see the goodies first, probably at the end of the weekend. Then starting next week we should have some NE angled long period swell for most of next week in the head high to a couple feet overhead range. If Lee really does stay due north of the island and continue to pump, we could see some N and NNW long period swell show up next weekend. We could easily see some double-overhead action. There will be plenty of spots to surf and the vibe is finally pretty chill right now. Don’t mess that up. Everyone play nice and have fun.

Multiple Tropical Systems Finally Give Rincon, PR Surf!

2023 and this is what we need to finally get some decent surf – three large tropical weather systems and a powerful trough to push them eastward. We’ve had Hurricane Franklin as a huge storm right in our swell window for a long time. I can remember weaker storms being in the same place doing the same thing and having waves for weeks. I have no idea why the earth doesn’t like to give Rincon waves this Hurricane Season, but all of that is about to change. Starting from today we should see at least a week of solid chest to head high surf with some bigger days scattered in. The tides will be important. Tropical swell tends like incoming tides. The varying water levels at the beach will also affect the breaking wave though so a lot of spots might be bigger on the incoming tide, but closing out more unless you know the right chunk of reef or sand bar that will be working well with all that extra water. The multiple storms will also result in multiple swells which will sometimes play nice with each other, and sometimes will get in each other’s way. Though we will have good waves, there will still be lulls and fluctuations. Stay patient, spread out, and have fun.

Hurricane Larry forecast to bring some surf!

Where all other storms so far have failed, Larry should be able to “Git-R-Done”. The current forecast brings Hurricane Larry to major hurricane strength over the weekend. If Larry continues to grow in size and intensity, he should be a proper wave maker. Everyone will get to surf from this storm if it keeps it’s middle of Atlantic forecast track. Giant open ocean storms with no land damage is what everyone wants during hurricane season – not catastrophic damage. By Sunday, the east side of the island will receive it’s first dose of solid long-period ground swell. Monday will most likely see the initial pulse at extremely exposed spots on the North side of the island. Most of the island will be surfable with good conditions. Rincon, however will very much get the smallest waves on the island during this swell event. The track of Larry doesn’t look to pass 65 West – the make or break zone for a storm swell to really hit Rincon. If the wind gets pulled south, we could possibly see the entire North coast of Puerto Rico firing with glassy conditions. No need to fight at crowded peaks. How big will the swell be? I’m anticipating head high with sets a couple feet overhead for most spots. The exception will be Fajardo. Fajardo will be huge at the swells arrival. The current will probably also be a bit intense. Also, never mind what I just said, there’s no waves in Fajardo. Don’t go there. Anyways, Rincon should start to see some swell early next week perhaps around Tuesday. For Rincon I forecast conditions great for wavestorm’s to crash into eachother and flail through the air after nose diving. Some decent, chest high sets should be able to roll in at some exposed Rincon spots perfect for beginners to drop in eachother and frustrate the one dude who can actually surf but wasn’t able to drive north all swell. Surf lessons should continue to populate the line-up with at least 30-50 people at each main break. Stay safe and have fun!

Is Puerto Rico back to “normal”?

Absolutely not! People around the island are strong and have adapted for what is now looking like a long-term situation, but it can still be taxing living without running water and yes there are still plenty of people around the island without running water or power. The island as a whole has seemed to accomplish “manageable” but it’s been really hard to push beyond that for a lot of municipalities. Compared to how things were immediately after the storm, “manageable” is a notable accomplishment! Several improvements have been achieved throughout the island, but the sad reality is that PR still has a lot of restoration work on its hands. Because Rincon bounced back so well, it’s easy to get caught in a bubble and forget that the rest of the island just isn’t as well off. Therefore, if you’re coming to visit PR, please be extra patient and kind – it will go a long way. For some areas, people’s entire way of living has had to change in an instant.

Rincon really is a special place.

If you’ve been here before you know this already and it’s probably why you’re reading about how things are going down here. Rincon has bounced back well. It is true, some people are still without power or water in certain parts of Rincon, but Rincon seems to still function very well. And yes, Rincon is doing better than several other parts of the island. Rincon still remains a work in progress and it will most likely stay that way for a while, but at least there is progress. The progress is as follows:

1. Communications and connectivity have improved drastically. Most carriers are working 80% of the time within the past month. Some towers will still go down when they run out of diesel, but it’s normally just for a day or so. Cable internet is now operational at most places near the 115 south of the plaza through to Calvache. In my opinion, this has become the most notable improvement since the last update. Internet over the Claro LTE network is possible in the majority of Rincon.
2. You can finally pay for things with credit cards here in Rincon.
3. Many restaurants and shops are operational.
4. Grocery stores are operating pretty much as they were before the hurricane.
5. Gas stations have gas and many take cards.
6. Drinking water can be purchased at the grocery store.
7. Aguadilla airport appears to be back to normal.
8. Rental cars are more available.
9. The weather is finally cooling down and it’s not 100+ degrees everyday.
10. The surf has been awesome!

The “Bad”

1. The roads are very roughed up from this whole ordeal and continue to get more roughed up. They were terrible to begin with and the storm itself with it’s flooding made matters worse. Then the heavy machinery took it’s toll on the roads and still continues to damage the streets. Also, in many areas including Rincon, you will still have random roadblocks and delays while workers clean-up debris and trees. I cannot stress enough the importance of PAYING ATTENTION while driving. The roads are bad and everyone drives crazy here.
2. Traffic can get way worse than it was before the hurricane in some areas. Some places where street lights were completely destroyed and removed have actually seen a major improvement in traffic flow. This is especially true for the north side of the island. However, some areas are severely congested where poorly timed traffic lights have become operational again (MAYAGUEZ).
3. Electricty and water will still experience outages in areas where they have already been restored. The duration of the outages will always be uncertain and there is always the possibility that the outages can become long-term again.
4. The crowds in the line-up just don’t seem to diminish. In fact, on some days they’re worse. Rincon isn’t just a destination enjoyed by the US and international travelers. Many people from different parts of the island are regularly visiting or staying in Rincon now. And why wouldn’t they? A steady flow of visitors is good for the economy of Rincon, but inevitably adds more surfers to the water at the same time. Let’s all play nice.

What Rincon Looks Like Two Months After Hurricane Maria

This is what everyone wants to know. Here’s some drive-around videos I was able to make with Meryl’s help to try and answer this question. You will see that we still have work to be done, but it’s not the zombie apocalypse the news would have you believe.

The Beaches of Rincon After Hurricane Maria as of November 2017

At first not all of the beaches in Rincon were accessible. Thanks to a lot of hard work, all of the main breaks are currently accessible and are still as beautiful as they ever were. Some seem more “open” since many trees have fallen and been removed, but so many new trees have grown new branches and leaves, it’s only a matter of time before no one will think twice. The public beach near town is still a bit messy but that is improving little by little as well.

The Roads in Rincon After Hurricane Maria as of November 2017

The roads are 10000% percent better than they were after the storm. Rincon really has been on the ball about this. However, the roads are still not without their hazards and not as “good” as they were before the storm. Be prepared for random delays as heavy machinery operates at random places clearing and transporting debris. Clean-up doesn’t just magically happen and you’ll often find yourself waiting for a bit to get to whatever destination you have. I drew the short straw on the way to autozone in Aguada one morning when the 115 had multiple stops while heavy machinery cleared some canals and ditches in both Rincon and Aguada. Once I made it to Aguada, I ran into a stop due to the arrival of FEMA supplies. In addition to the other problems of collapsed road areas and other road hazards the 5 mile trip from my house from Rincon to Aguada took 2.5 hrs. I have since traveled the same distance many other times since that day with no where near the same amount of wait time. The point is that you have to be prepared to be patient should the situation arise. Are the roads safe? Depends on your standards. At no point can you even for a split second stop paying attention to what you’re doing while driving. There are still holes in the road, trees sticking out into the road, low lying cables, power poles broken over, etc… so you must pay attention to what you’re doing. Everyone who has driven in Puerto Rico understands this concept already and as long as you stay vigilant you should be alright. Driving in Puerto Rico was already like playing a video game, it’s just at a more challenging level now and of course you only get one life. Be safe.

Gasoline and Food Availability in Rincon as of November 2017

Gasoline is available without a wait in all of Rincon. However, the ability to pay with credit card is often difficult. Some days you can, most days you can’t. Food is available at the Grocery stores without any more waiting than you would have experienced before the storm. At Econo, the selection of items can be limited and fresh fruits and vegetables can be harder to find. For these items, the outdoor fruit stands seem to be better stocked. Edward’s has had the most solid supply of canned goods pretty much throughout the whole event. Most restaurants in town are open and operational. Pools bar was open last time I surfed there this past weekend and Bohio and Calypso were open too. The little kiosks near the surfer statue in town have been open and everyone’s favorite pizza places were back up and running within a few days after the storm so there’s plenty of pizza – once again though, don’t expect a variety of toppings as most are limited to just cheese or pepperoni.

Can I pay with a credit card?

“No! Cash only!” That is the answer you will get 98% of the time no matter where you are or what you’re trying to pay for especially gas or food. ATM machines at banks are working and rarely have a line anymore. At first getting cash from the bank was a pain, but now things are much better! Just be prepared to pay for everything with cash unless you have somehow pre-purchased online with a credit card. Sometimes, some places will have their credit card machines working, but you can’t depend on that because it truly is random.

Cell Signal and Connectivity Frustration

Just because you had full signal and were able to make a voice call in one spot yesterday doesn’t mean that you’ll be able to do the same today. Just because you had working data on one carrier the day before at a specific time and place doesn’t mean you’ll have it in the same spot and time of day today. Seriously, this is VERY frustrating and will drive you mad if you actually need to get ahold of someone or really need to check your email. It’s also why it’s hard to upload the report each day even though i’ve gone to the beaches and taken pictures. It seems the random difficulties occur more frequently when you really need connectivity. In person communication is still the only way to not have your call dropped. Also note that all iDevices don’t like not being connected to the internet. Your iPhones and iPads will get mad at you and not work like normal while you’re down here. The iOS was designed around a fully functional 1st world – not the third world or disaster areas. Android phones don’t seem to care and are more versatile and function better on a general level.

Flying into San Juan

You will most likely have to fly into San Juan to come to Puerto Rico. It will be very difficult to rent a car and if you ARE able to get a vehicle it will be EXPENSIVE! One way around this is to the take the little plane from SJU to Mayaguez and then try to get a rental car over here on this side. I recommend the little plane no matter what since traffic in San Juan is far worse than it was before the storm. I hate it! https://www.capeair.com/ If Aguadilla airport (BQN) starts operating more normally, things may improve in this department. Things at SJU (San Juan) might improve as well. This is just what people have been encountering as of right now.

Power and Water Situation in Rincon after Hurricane Maria as of November 2017

Puntas still has no power or water. Several parts of Rincon have both power and water, but there are still many areas that have neither. The place where you’re staying may have a backup generator and cistern so it wouldn’t be that bad, but make sure you know if they do before you book your stay. Even if they do they might be on a regimen of run times. Some areas even get water a couple of days a week within a certain time-frame to be able to refill cisterns. Make sure you know this information ahead of time. Your other options is to just be prepared to not have power or water and not care. For the most part areas near town and areas on the 115 south of the old Econo should have power and water. I went to a place in Estella for an appointment the other day and they’ve had power and water for a while, but the whole area smelled very bad of raw sewage. This is something to consider if you were staying in Estella. I wouldn’t recommend drinking the tap water right now as some people have gotten sick from doing so. Drinking water is available for purchase at the grocery stores now (for a long time you couldn’t buy drinking water at the store). One vacation rental that was ready very early is the Casa Canal. They had everything cleaned up, minimal damage, commercial generator and kept running water from early on. They’re currently already back on grid power and city water. It’s walking distance to most of the open local businesses. http://www.casacanalpr.com

Is Rincon the right vacation spot for you right now?

Don’t get me wrong. Rincon NEEDS tourism because much of our economy depends on it. However, if you’re reading the above and your initial reaction is “Absolutely not!” then you’re better off somewhere else. If you can see past the inconveniences and respect the situation, Rincon still has a lot of island beauty to be safely enjoyed and plenty of waves. For most people who have been regulars over the years, things won’t be that different from “normal”. First timers might want to wait until more conveniences come back online unless you’re the adventurous type. For the later, it could be the trip of a lifetime and a chance to experience something really cool. If you’re not the adventurous type and absolutely need all the comforts and conveniences of the states, then PR probably wasn’t the right fit for you before the storm anyways, much less after it. I’ve tried to give the facts and give any useful parts of my opinion. Feel free to email me on the contact page and I’ll do a follow-up post if needed.

Hurricane Nicole will continue to send surf our way!

Wow what a storm! Even though she will be going extra-tropical over the next few days she will remain a massive weather system with heavy winds across much of the North Atlantic. Here’s what the NHC has to say about it:

Swells from Nicole will affect Bermuda and portions of the U.S. east coast and Atlantic Canada during the next couple of days. By early next week, wave models suggest that long-period swell from Nicole will radiate outward and affect much of the North Atlantic basin.

So basically, get ready to surf some more! The only downside to all of this is that the winds are forecast to stay out of the south which means that temperatures will be hot, hot, hot! However, as far as surf goes, it will be EPIC! A lot of north facing spots will be all time once again and a lot of the exposed spots on the north side of the island that can throw a barrel will be all-time. I hope to get some good coverage on this swell. Keep checking the galleries.

Hurricane Nicole Gives Us More Surf!

Enjoy the nonstop swell people. It’s been a long hot summer. Hurricane Nicole has just been sitting right in our swell window and strengthening. As the swell from the cold-front that ate Matthew fades out, we should have plenty of hurricane swell filling in. Expect conditions to remain overhead through the rest of the week and at least chest high over the weekend. Then next week we could see another round of long period swell when Nicole goes extra-tropical and merges with a cold front. What an amazing setup we have right now. Now go surf!

Hurricane Matthew finally goes out to sea – surf time!

It’s about time. Matthew went from a predicted path of maximum surf and minimal destruction to an actual path of maximum destruction and minimal surf. Now that he’s moving out to sea and absorbed in a cold front we can just think about the surf. Most of next week should go off! The first couple of days should be fairly big, and then fading leftovers in the fun chest high range for the rest of the week. I’m a little bummed we don’t get the Loopty Loop path, but to be honest the Loopty Loop is kind of a super rare occurrence and I never really had too much faith in it. Hope yes, faith no. The current forecast makes more sense and is a bit more reliable as a result. Get ready to surf your brains out! And if you’re flying in for the swell, book a photo shoot with me!