Weaker weather, smaller waves, still surf.

I get it, after one of the biggest swells we’ve seen in years followed up by another decent sized NW swell it’s hard to get get excited about smaller waves, but remember – small doesn’t always mean flat. The surf doesn’t have to be double overhead to have fun. Even though this weekend won’t pack the same punch as the previous two swells, I see plenty of opportunities for some fun sessions before the next swell with overhead surf gets here on Tuesday. Here’s how I see things playing out:

Thursday will most likely start of very small with dead winds and be perfect for beginner surf lessons or any calm water activity. Some NW swell should creep in around lunch time and last the rest of the day.
Friday the leftovers from whatever shows up from this NW pulse that is on the outside buoys linger on with most likely some waist to chest high surf at the most exposed spots in Rincon. The wind might pick up in the afternoon so early morning is the best call for a glassy session.
Saturday has the possibility of keeping the waist to chest high surf alive with some N angled background swell filling in. I would say this day will be a bit more tide sensitive that most days.
Sunday should also keep the waist to chest high surf alive but with a little less power as the angle will not be a direct hit.
Monday is currently not forecast to go flat, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it does. I’ll split the difference with the models and say waist high surf lesson wave.
Tuesday should see the arrival of the next major pulse in the 2ft overhead range at all Rincon breaks. The surf may start off a little on the small side in the early morning but I’m anticipating at least 2ft overhead by the mid-day.

Another Big NW Swell – More Surf in Rincon!

Here we go again! Expect conditions to be a a few feet overhead and clean in the morning tomorrow with sets building to double overhead by the end of the day. Saturday should be pretty much the same as tomorrow but with a slightly more northerly angle. This won’t mean much for Tres and it will most likely see big sets all day Saturday. Sunday the conditions start to fade, but if all goes according to plan we could see fun size waves persist into the new week. The current pattern would suggest another front moving into position to setup the next swell by mid-week next week. Winds are forecast to blow south on Tuesday so this is very much a possibility. The lower lattitude of this storm along with the drop in pressure right in our swell window tells me this swell should have a decent amount of west in it which should serve to get a lot of nook and cranny spots working even if the actual swell height doesn’t end up being huge. This is a very different storm and swell setup than the last swell, but the end result is similar – big perfect waves.

Biggest Swell of the Year (so far) on its Way!

This one’s gonna be a big one! Don’t let the small surf of Today and Tomorrow fool you. Sunday will wake up to double overhead and bigger. This is a huge, powerful storm that will make huge, powerful waves. The surf will be beyond most people’s skill level. Please stay safe people. I really don’t want anyone to die this swell event. Monday will still be large and Tuesday will be considerably smaller but still good and what most people would consider perfect waves. Wednesday may fade to flat, but by Thursday or Friday another NW pulse is supposed to show up which could light up a lot of tucked away nooks and crannies. The original model runs were giving the later NW a longer wave period than the current runs, but I hope the forecast goes back to longer period NW swell. As for this weekend’s swell, the period is supposed to be 15 or 16 seconds so expect a lot of power and hopefully way more barrels in the line-up than usual.