Weekend Update: Smaller surf, but plenty of it!

The wind will blow pretty hard between now and Friday, but by the weekend we should see dead winds here in Rincon and possibly some south winds on Sunday and Monday. The high pressure is taking center stage as the wave generating system in the Atlantic which means that we’ll see a bit of a shorter period that originally anticipated. Also, a little more NE angle will be on the swell which means the size and strength of the waves to come goes down a notch. We should still see some fun waist to chest high surf though on most days into next week.

Here’s how I see the surf forecast playing out:

Friday: Waist to Chest High windy leftovers.
Saturday: Chest to Head High and glassy everywhere.
Sunday: Chest to Head High and glassy everywhere with the north facing beaches remaining glassy all day.
Monday: Waist to Chest High with south winds again.
Tuesday: Knee to Waist High with pretty much dead winds perfect for surf lessons.
Wednesday: Waist high building to chest and head high by the evening with light wind.
Thursday: Waist to Chest High with light east wind.

What A beautiful storm! More swell for surfing Puerto Rico.

Not only is that low setup right in our swell window, it actually dipped hard south – like straight down as it amplified and high pressure is building in behind it. This will keep a fetch going across a lot of the Atlantic and the swell should continue to rage. And in the long range we have a really strong late season winter storm crossing the states as we speak. We’re set to have surf for quite a few days!

Here’s how I see it playing it out:

Tuesday: Double Overhead and Perfection fading to 2-3ft overhead by the evening.
Wednesday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with some bigger sets still in the water.
Thursday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with heavy winds later in the day.
Friday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with some double overhead sets.
Saturday: 2ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with smaller surf later in the day.
Sunday: Head high and glassy.
Monday: Chest high and glassy.

I like it when things change for the better – more surf on the way!

We have a nice setup to keep some waist high surf on our beaches for the next few days and through the weekend. Some days with the right tide will still see some chest high sets. Early next week we could possibly see another big swell. This season has been going great so far! I hope it keeps up.

Here’s how I see things playing out for surfing Rincon:

Wednesday – Chest high and glassy all morning everywhere in Rincon and fading through the day.
Thursday – Waist to Chest high and mushy at the most exposed breaks.
Friday – Waist high and glassy at the most exposed breaks.
Saturday – Waist to Chest high and glassy in the morning at just about every Rincon spot.
Sunday – Chest to Head high and glassy in the morning at the more exposed breaks.
Monday – Double overhead and powerful with clean conditions at protected spots.
Tuesday – Head high to a couple feet overhead and glassy fading fast through the day.