Plenty of weather to keep us all surfing in Rincon.

I think this coming swell is going to be a lot of fun. We should have a decent little bump up in size for tomorrow in the head high to a foot overhead range and then a little drop in size for Friday in the chest high range. The weekend will be insanely busy, but should have plenty of surf. The winds are supposed to lay down through the weekend but pick up hard for the coming week. I hope the winds stay light. Light winds means countless chunks of coastline will be surfable and therefore a chance to surf without a crowd. Once the swell angle changes to the NNE to NE and gets a longer period behind it, the wait in between decent sets will get longer and frustration will easily build if you’re trying to surf a crowded spot.

If the swell delays slightly, Saturday could be the most frustrating day to go the beach. A major holiday weekend and tons of people looking for waves is fine if the waves are everywhere. But if the swell delays and only one or two spots have a decent wave, the whole island will pack into one break and fight it out. I want no part of that. The swell should definitely be here by Sunday though. If it shows up Saturday then great. Saturday might involve some travel time to find a secluded beach with surf to avoid aggression, disappointment, and feelings of worthlessness.

Nonstop Surf for Rincon – OH YEAH!

Seriously, when I took a look at the satellite loops this evening I couldn’t be happier. We have a steady flow of surf generating weather and the models are picking up on the closest ones giving us more NNE and NNW swell. I honestly see a couple weeks worth of surf based on current satellite imagery, but it just might be the stoke talking. This past swell has been so ridiculously perfect and fun. This has been a great season! Look for Monday and Tuesday to mellow out a little bit to a more friendly size but still be really fun. We should still see some head high surf with decent power. Monday will still see some nice overhead sets linger on. Another pulse up should arrive by mid-week and slowly fade a notch each day from Friday through the weekend.

Plenty more surf on the way for Rincon!

Wow what a busy weather map. That low that pulled up from the south was the only variable not picked up on by any of the model runs when I wrote the previous forecast. That whole setup was very rare for this time of year, but that low has been the gift that keeps on giving. The past 3 days have felt like a hurricane swell. Cranking NW swell and hard SW winds is always fun. There’s so much going on in the Atlantic right now that trying distinguish exactly how it will all contribute to the surf we see on the beach piece by piece is somewhat pointless. All you need to know is that the surf will continue to rage for the next 7 days. We shouldn’t get below waist to chest high at the main breaks and the mornings should be glassy. We might see a more onshore everywhere flow in the afternoons, but the mornings should always have a glassy option on at least one of the sides of Rincon. Wednesday looks like the scheduled arrival date for the next distinguishable pulse and we could easily see some overhead sets again with glassy conditions for the west facing spots. That pulse should linger through the weekend. I wouldn’t be surprised to see some long period swell creep in the mix as well from the far north storm, but none of the models are biting on that scenario yet – too much weather closer to the island. Have fun, stay safe, and show respect in the water.

Get ready for another major swell event!

We look to be hit with a two pronged attack. First off we will see some NNW swell fill in Tuesday evening and by Wednesday morning we should be double overhead on sets. Thursday will remain big and Friday might drop down a notch or two while round two works its way to the island. It looks like the entire Atlantic well be pushed at Puerto Rico again for the weekend so expect to see really big short period swell again and a lot of wind. I’ve noticed the nooks and crannies have been liking the shorter period swells with the higher wave heights. They will be the best call again since wind blockage will be necessary. Tres is going to fire for several days. The swell should last into early next week.

BE SAFE!

I’m not kidding. Don’t overestimate your abilities and don’t underestimate the danger out there. It is very dangerous. Let’s try and get through this swell safely and still have fun. If you’ve had the same leash on your board for a long time you might want to consider getting a new one (or two).

More NW swell on the way for surfing Rincon.

What I like about this weather system is that there has been a steady fetch of wind pointed right at us from off the coast of the Eastern US for the past two days. If the high pressure pushes the system out and keeps that flow we should have several days of NW swell on tap. Tomorrow is going to be very small, but we should see the new NW swell show up by Friday mid-day. By the end of the day Friday expect to see some sets a few feet overhead. Over the weekend the surf should stay in the head high range and stay at least waist to chest high for the start of the coming week. Any dip from the low pressure centers and the swell could increase drastically so it’s worth watching the weather.

Cold Front Mania – Let the NW swell continue!

This week will be feature a little more wind than the past couple of weeks, but we should have plenty of NW and N swell for the coming work week. Next weekend is looking like the NNE to NE leftovers of the current weather systems, but with the amount of activity I’m seeing on sat images I wouldn’t be surprised to see another major swell event form. Tomorrow should be chest to head high and clean at the north facing beaches and hopefully some bigger sets. Tuesday may see a slight bump up to head high with some overhead sets with clean conditions in the morning and onshore everywhere winds by the afternoon. Wednesday should be head high to a couple feet overhead with light winds. Waist to chest high with light winds should be the theme for the remainder of the forecast period with a few bigger pulses at the right time and tide. So far this month has provided a lot of waves. I like the lower latitude fronts and NW swell. It hits Rincon really well and the NW angle is a big part of why this past week was so much better than most people expected.

Massive winter storm: major swell event for Rincon, Puerto Rico.

This storm is a beast! Look at all that wind field! It’s beautiful! I am so amped looking at the graphical representation of the winds this morning. Looking at the pressure chart is impressive too. This swell is going to crank for several days. We should see the first arrival on Wednesday afternoon or evening with some south winds on Wednesday and Thursday. This means that north facing beaches will be all time on these two days. This also means that there will be several spots working that normally get blown out right away. Your chances of surfing with a light crowd are very high if you know where to go. If you cram into the same exact peak as everyone else that’s on you. That being said, remember too that this is a major swell and we will see sets in the double overhead range and possibly bigger. If it’s out of your skill level don’t paddle out. If you see someone in trouble, help them if you can. Please be safe!

Early Weekend Outlook:

We should continue with head high surf through the weekend. The swell angle is supposed to remain out of the NW and even though the period drops a little, the NW angle hits Rincon and several other parts of Puerto Rico very well. I don’t anticipate it getting any smaller than waist to chest and just about every day should still have head high sets.