Weather System Bombs Out – More surf for Rincon, Puerto Rico.

A massive front is just sitting in the North Atlantic between the continents and rapidly intensifying. The fetch area is huge. Swell will be generated for everyone. This is a beast of a storm and should be an amazing swell event. Some long period swell from previous weather activity should show up today and and hold through to when the current beast storm’s swell hits in a another day or two. The swell angle will be slightly pointed away from Rincon, but the swell period will be long enough to not really matter. I anticipate a little less size here in Rincon than other parts of the island, but double overhead sets will still roll through when the big stuff arrives. The form should be absolutely perfect at many spots. The swell is long period swell with lots of grooming on it’s travels to PR. Here’s how I see it playing out:
Sunday we start to see the swell creep in slowly through the day. We start off waist to chest high and end the day a couple feet overhead.
Monday 2 to 4 ft overhead with some double overhead sets here in Rincon and heavy.
Tuesday 2ft overhead and glassy with bigger sets.
Wednesday head high to a couple of feet overhead in the morning and consistently overhead in the evening with possible double overhead sets before sundown.
Thursday 2ft overhead with bigger sets.
Friday 2-4ft overhead with double overhead sets.
Saturday 2ft overhead with perfect conditions.
Sunday Head high to 2ft overhead with perfect conditions.

What a forecast! This is going to be a MAJOR swell event. Bear in mind that more exposed coasts of the island will be considerably larger. Also, what makes this swell event so special is the persistent longer period. Most of the time we only get a few hours or maybe a day’s worth of long period swell. On this event we see longer period for about an entire week. I’m so stoked!

SAFETY WARNING!

This is going to be a decent sized swell with a lot of power. Don’t get yourself killed. If you see someone trying to take a foamy out into double overhead surf stop them (unless it’s Jamie O’Brian). Any time you consider a paddle out ask yourself if you could swim back if you get knocked to the bottom and lose your board. Be nice to each other and lookout for one another. No need to be overly agro and disrespect someone’s life or your own.

Active weather means more surf!

Just look at all that activity in the Atlantic. We have a weak front forecast to develop into a gale, tropical waves pulling off Africa, and a monster low over the states. In the short term we will see the next pulse show up Thursday – nothing major but a little waist to chest high action here in Rincon (maybe some head high surf at the more exposed spots) with some bigger conditions on the North side of the island. Friday and Saturday stay rideable but small. Sunday we should see some long period swell show up and build into Monday. By then we should have a good idea of what to expect from the monster low over the states for late next week. I expect early week conditions to fade out after Monday. So far we have had a very consistent October. So far we have more than the usual crowd for this time of year as well. Play nice everyone and be respectful. Remember too that if you choose a super crowded spot, you should anticipate some frustration. If you don’t know where else to go, hit me up and I’ll guide you around.

Subtropical Storm Melissa a Surf Machine

Part Cold-front, part tropical storm, 100% wave maker – meet Subtropical Storm Melissa. She has a decent windfield that setup a nice fetch right in our swell window. Fun waves should persist for the next 3-5 days. Her forecast track keeps a good route for an extended swell event as well. Don’t expect huge waves, but we should see many chest to head high days with favorable winds and good conditions. We have some approaching tropical waves too that will serve to keep the winds light or offshore at several exposed coasts. This October is off to a great start!

NE swell for days – plenty of surf for Rincon.

Granted, the NE angle isn’t ideal for Rincon. But when there is enough size in it, there’s always plenty of fun waves. Due to the shorter period, don’t expect the same push and power of the last major swell event. Expect conditions to remain steady today and drop off slightly tomorrow. Thursday will be small and a bit lully before evening out to waist to chest high leftovers on Friday. Not to worry though, we should begin to see a new pulse start to show up on Saturday and build through the day. The next swell event could be another week long run of swell. This season is off to a good start.