Tropical Depression Two Might Give Rincon Surf!

Don’t everyone look at once, but we have a tropical depression out in the Atlantic. I said don’t everyone look at once! We don’t want to scare it away. Now I know she ain’t much to look at right now, but there’s a closed circulation in there somewhere. If the current forecast sticks, we should see TD Two form into a Tropical Storm tomorrow. If the west side of the storm can get it’s act together we have a shot at some NW swell late in the forecast period. The current path moves the storm away from us and the steering currents responsible for that should at least put some Easterly swell on the beaches up in Isabela. The southerly surface winds form the storm should keep it glassy up there and at all North facing beaches. I don’t think we’ll have much in Rincon this weekend but a little bump in the knee high range will probably stick around. Early next week into mid-week is when we get a better shot at decent surf depending on what happens over the weekend. I’m keeping close tabs on this one. I want some tropical swell!

Weekend Update – Surf is on the way!

Tomorrow morning will be flat. The models are calling for the swell to arrive on Saturday. Buoy data has me hoping that we might see some swell creep in tomorrow afternoon, but more than likely we won’t see it until Saturday. The swell event looks to last from Saturday through the coming Monday with smaller and windy conditions persisting through most of next week. The biggest day will probably be Sunday. The winds are currently forecast to be light on Sunday as well. This means just about every Rincon spot should be going off with head high glass and bigger sets into the 3ft overhead range. The angle is most likely going to have some NNE tilt in it which can make for some long rides if the period can stay above 12 seconds. We’ll have to wait and see. It’s good to see the end of December lining up to have more surf. Overall, this has been a pretty slow December wave-wise. Have fun out there, don’t get in fights, pick a less crowded spot, and surf your brains out!

Plenty of weather over the water to keep the surf coming!

The weather is finally cooling off at night and the mornings have been refreshingly cool. We’ve been getting waves fairly consistently and happiness has been restored to acceptable levels for just about everyone over here. I certainly hope this pattern keeps up. We’ve had a great October so far surf-wise. Tomorrow is looking like the smallest day of the week with some knee to waist high leftovers, but you still might see some chest high sets roll in. Another high latitude storm will have a ton of high pressure build-in behind it which should give us another round of swell. Look for the surf to be on the rise starting from Thursday and last through Saturday. The northerly fetch looks decent on the weather models and we should see a slightly longer period (by a second or two) than this past swell event. This means we’ll hopefully have a just a little less wobble in the waves. The wind is supposed to be more dominant from the east so the west facing side of Rincon should be well groomed. Here’s the short version:

Wednesday: Knee to waist high leftovers glassy in the morning.
Thursday: Waist to chest and glassy in the morning building to head high plus by the end of the day.
Friday: Head high and glassy in the morning and at all west facing spots with wind protection later in the day.
Saturday: Chest high and conditions similar to Friday.
Sunday: Waist high glassy leftovers.