Weekend Update – Surf is on the way!

Tomorrow morning will be flat. The models are calling for the swell to arrive on Saturday. Buoy data has me hoping that we might see some swell creep in tomorrow afternoon, but more than likely we won’t see it until Saturday. The swell event looks to last from Saturday through the coming Monday with smaller and windy conditions persisting through most of next week. The biggest day will probably be Sunday. The winds are currently forecast to be light on Sunday as well. This means just about every Rincon spot should be going off with head high glass and bigger sets into the 3ft overhead range. The angle is most likely going to have some NNE tilt in it which can make for some long rides if the period can stay above 12 seconds. We’ll have to wait and see. It’s good to see the end of December lining up to have more surf. Overall, this has been a pretty slow December wave-wise. Have fun out there, don’t get in fights, pick a less crowded spot, and surf your brains out!

Plenty of weather over the water to keep the surf coming!

The weather is finally cooling off at night and the mornings have been refreshingly cool. We’ve been getting waves fairly consistently and happiness has been restored to acceptable levels for just about everyone over here. I certainly hope this pattern keeps up. We’ve had a great October so far surf-wise. Tomorrow is looking like the smallest day of the week with some knee to waist high leftovers, but you still might see some chest high sets roll in. Another high latitude storm will have a ton of high pressure build-in behind it which should give us another round of swell. Look for the surf to be on the rise starting from Thursday and last through Saturday. The northerly fetch looks decent on the weather models and we should see a slightly longer period (by a second or two) than this past swell event. This means we’ll hopefully have a just a little less wobble in the waves. The wind is supposed to be more dominant from the east so the west facing side of Rincon should be well groomed. Here’s the short version:

Wednesday: Knee to waist high leftovers glassy in the morning.
Thursday: Waist to chest and glassy in the morning building to head high plus by the end of the day.
Friday: Head high and glassy in the morning and at all west facing spots with wind protection later in the day.
Saturday: Chest high and conditions similar to Friday.
Sunday: Waist high glassy leftovers.

No Surf For Rincon – Plenty of small surf around the island.

We will be stuck in a steady flow of hot, humid air and east winds. This summer is going to be really, really, ridiculously hot. However, the weather looks to be lining up with some surf possibilities for the summertime spots around the island. Several breaks on the north side of the island should see some waist to chest high surf over the next couple of weeks and the southeast should be fun as another tropical wave will be approaching in a 3 or 4 days. The water isn’t super hot yet and the fish seem to be loving the current conditions. Several schools of just about everything are coming pretty close to shore. So basically go exploring if you can and you’ll probably find waves. If not, then take a paddleboard and a fishing pole and go catch some fish. Other fun options include spearing, lobstering, or going to one of the many waterfalls in PR. Whatever you do, don’t just sit at home sweating your face off.

Did you see the latest satellite loop?!?

I can’t believe my eyes. We have back to back systems pulling out into the Atlantic. A new NE long period swell is headed our way already with a possible N swell for the weekend. Rincon is looking like it should be going off for a while. Granted, the swell will drop off a bit tomorrow and Wednesday, but after that we should be in for another five days of non-stop action.

How to stay having fun with long period swells:

With most long period NE swells, many tucked away spots will be kind of boring in between sets. This is because there is no real wave in between the sets. The wait might be 10 minutes in between each set of 3 or 4 waves. This means if you’re at a crowded spot you probably won’t catch any waves. The solution – go somewhere else. The wind is forecast to stay light. There will be plenty of options. Find a spot without people and you will have the time of your life. Even if the wave quality isn’t as good as the super crowded breaks, you’ll have more fun actually catching waves. Trust me.