Some High Pressure and a weak front = small waves for Rincon.

This past swell turned out to be a lot of fun! In the coming week we look to stay small to flat for most of the time. A steady flow of ENE wind swell will be on tap the entire time, so the North side of the island should be a lot of fun with light winds in the mornings. Because Rincon doesn’t really pick up ENE wind swell that well, we will only see small, mushy longboard waves and surf lesson waves. A lot of action seems to be going on across the states weather-wise so I wouldn’t be surprised if we get another decent swell after this next flat spell.

Just a little while longer and the flatness will be no more.

By tomorrow morning we should start to see the new swell fill in. The winds are forecast to be light so I’m thinking that just about every surf spot in Rincon should be breaking perfectly in the morning. By the afternoon we will experience a light onshore flow on both sides of Rincon for most of the days this week. The lower latitude spring time Low Pressure System combined with a powerful High Pressure behind will dump fun waves at us from mid-week through the weekend. I’m stoked! Here’s how i see it playing out.

Wednesday: Waist to Chest High glass at all Rincon breaks in the morning with occasionally bigger sets.
Thursday: Chest to Head High glass at all Rincon breaks in the morning with some bigger sets.
Friday: 2-3ft Overhead glassy at all Rincon Breaks in the morning with dead winds most of the day.
Saturday: Chest to Head High glass in the morning with waist to chest high afternoon waves on the west side of Rincon once the winds pick up.
Sunday: Waist to Chest High leftovers at the more exposed breaks.
Monday: Waist High leftovers at the most exposed breaks.
Tuesday: Possible Building swell starting off Waist High and Ending Head High and bumpy.

It’s not looking good – no surf for Rincon.

The forecast is simple – we will stay flat for the next 10 days. But I guess I owe it to everyone to at least explain why. Looking at the weather chart above, if all the of the H’s were L’s and all the L’s were H’s we would have the biggest and best swell of all time. Unfortunately, that’s the opposite of what we have now. All of the fetch over the Atlantic pushes waves away from Rincon, not towards it. Wind around a high pressure system spins clockwise and wind around low pressure systems spins counterclockwise. There is a weak front trying to push off the states that might make a waist high background swell at some point, but that is about it.

Where can you find waves?

Spain and Portugal will be on fire next week. Can’t go over there? If you’re spring break is starting to look broken, don’t worry. The north coast of the island should have a decent supply of wind swell the remainder of the month. Mornings can offer at least a semi-clean wave and there is enough coastline to avoid extreme crowds if you’re willing to surf a sloppier wave. Easterly wind swell limits your options though and you will need to find a spot that is very exposed to have any size in the surf.

Weaker weather means smaller waves for surfing Puerto Rico.

After an amazing past few days, the surf in Rincon will start to quiet down. We will stay small to flat for most of the week with the exception of Wednesday/Thursday. This will be due to the weaker weather systems pulling off the states and less fetch. If things amplify and organize a little bit more we could be looking at another big swell. However, none of the models are picking up on this scenario and most likely we will stay small and have more wind. Wind chop should continue with some size up on the north side of Puerto Rico. I’ll update again after another couple of model runs. The possible conditions for Wednesday/Thursday should become more clear soon.