It’s going to be one of those summers.

Nothing but scraps from out in the North Atlantic for surfing Rincon, Puerto Rico. We look to stay completely flat for the rest of the month. We can hope for some phantom bumps here and there, but don’t expect any actual swell. I’ll try to keep up with the report so that you can know if one of those phantom background swells shows up. With all of this heat we can start to hope for an active Tropical Season. Let’s all hope for plenty of storm swell and no destruction. Big storms that just sit out at sea create some of the best swells ever to hit our coasts.

No surf for Rincon, Puerto Rico.

The glimmer of hope that we had is now gone. All of the wind and resulting waves are pointed away from us. I was hoping the late season Low Pressure system would pull out further with stronger winds behind it. Unfortunately, the strongest winds and interaction with the giant high pressure over the Atlantic is going to pump all of the winds away from us. This means we’re going to have strong south winds and REALLY HOT weather over the next few days. We will have no surf here. Hopefully Isabela will offer some rideable surf and stay glassy with all this south wind.

Semi-Active weather pattern should keep background swell coming, but nothing major.

The forecast is looking like the surf will stay small to minimal for this week and weekend. Nothing major is forecast to show up on the beaches here in Rincon. However, the north coast of the island should be decent with some waist to chest high surf and glassy conditions in the mornings. The winds are looking to stay light this entire time. Rincon will most likely be surf lesson dream waves all week with little knee high peelers and occasionally bigger longboard lines.

Hope in the distance: Next week.

The weather is too active to count on a flat spell lasting more than a week and a half. Which makes me inclined to believe what a lot of the models are starting to show for the 9th and 10th (next Monday/Tuesday). We should see some chest high glassy waves on those days. I’ll try and update again mid-week to see if it’s coming together.

Weekend Update: Smaller surf, but plenty of it!

The wind will blow pretty hard between now and Friday, but by the weekend we should see dead winds here in Rincon and possibly some south winds on Sunday and Monday. The high pressure is taking center stage as the wave generating system in the Atlantic which means that we’ll see a bit of a shorter period that originally anticipated. Also, a little more NE angle will be on the swell which means the size and strength of the waves to come goes down a notch. We should still see some fun waist to chest high surf though on most days into next week.

Here’s how I see the surf forecast playing out:

Friday: Waist to Chest High windy leftovers.
Saturday: Chest to Head High and glassy everywhere.
Sunday: Chest to Head High and glassy everywhere with the north facing beaches remaining glassy all day.
Monday: Waist to Chest High with south winds again.
Tuesday: Knee to Waist High with pretty much dead winds perfect for surf lessons.
Wednesday: Waist high building to chest and head high by the evening with light wind.
Thursday: Waist to Chest High with light east wind.

What A beautiful storm! More swell for surfing Puerto Rico.

Not only is that low setup right in our swell window, it actually dipped hard south – like straight down as it amplified and high pressure is building in behind it. This will keep a fetch going across a lot of the Atlantic and the swell should continue to rage. And in the long range we have a really strong late season winter storm crossing the states as we speak. We’re set to have surf for quite a few days!

Here’s how I see it playing it out:

Tuesday: Double Overhead and Perfection fading to 2-3ft overhead by the evening.
Wednesday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with some bigger sets still in the water.
Thursday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with heavy winds later in the day.
Friday: 2-3ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with some double overhead sets.
Saturday: 2ft Overhead and glassy in the morning with smaller surf later in the day.
Sunday: Head high and glassy.
Monday: Chest high and glassy.

I like it when things change for the better – more surf on the way!

We have a nice setup to keep some waist high surf on our beaches for the next few days and through the weekend. Some days with the right tide will still see some chest high sets. Early next week we could possibly see another big swell. This season has been going great so far! I hope it keeps up.

Here’s how I see things playing out for surfing Rincon:

Wednesday – Chest high and glassy all morning everywhere in Rincon and fading through the day.
Thursday – Waist to Chest high and mushy at the most exposed breaks.
Friday – Waist high and glassy at the most exposed breaks.
Saturday – Waist to Chest high and glassy in the morning at just about every Rincon spot.
Sunday – Chest to Head high and glassy in the morning at the more exposed breaks.
Monday – Double overhead and powerful with clean conditions at protected spots.
Tuesday – Head high to a couple feet overhead and glassy fading fast through the day.

Some High Pressure and a weak front = small waves for Rincon.

This past swell turned out to be a lot of fun! In the coming week we look to stay small to flat for most of the time. A steady flow of ENE wind swell will be on tap the entire time, so the North side of the island should be a lot of fun with light winds in the mornings. Because Rincon doesn’t really pick up ENE wind swell that well, we will only see small, mushy longboard waves and surf lesson waves. A lot of action seems to be going on across the states weather-wise so I wouldn’t be surprised if we get another decent swell after this next flat spell.

Just a little while longer and the flatness will be no more.

By tomorrow morning we should start to see the new swell fill in. The winds are forecast to be light so I’m thinking that just about every surf spot in Rincon should be breaking perfectly in the morning. By the afternoon we will experience a light onshore flow on both sides of Rincon for most of the days this week. The lower latitude spring time Low Pressure System combined with a powerful High Pressure behind will dump fun waves at us from mid-week through the weekend. I’m stoked! Here’s how i see it playing out.

Wednesday: Waist to Chest High glass at all Rincon breaks in the morning with occasionally bigger sets.
Thursday: Chest to Head High glass at all Rincon breaks in the morning with some bigger sets.
Friday: 2-3ft Overhead glassy at all Rincon Breaks in the morning with dead winds most of the day.
Saturday: Chest to Head High glass in the morning with waist to chest high afternoon waves on the west side of Rincon once the winds pick up.
Sunday: Waist to Chest High leftovers at the more exposed breaks.
Monday: Waist High leftovers at the most exposed breaks.
Tuesday: Possible Building swell starting off Waist High and Ending Head High and bumpy.