Notice there isn’t much going on west of Henri? No real surf.

Tropical Storm Henri has almost no windfield on his west side which means we don’t have a north fetch or even a NE fetch. That means no real surf. We might see some background swell, but there isn’t even any real gradient or any weather whatsoever on his west side that could point a decent swell at us. It’s a grim forecast, but I think after the next day or so of smaller knee high leftovers we’ll be flat for a while.

What about the remnants of Grace?

Grace, much like Fred, was doomed from her beginning. PR has a force field of shear around it which is a result of the extreme heat from a record El Niño in the Pacific. Grace’s remaining fragments will pass our island this weekend and will do almost nothing. We might have a slight bump up on the north side of the island for surf, but Rincon will stay knee high at best. On the off chance we actually get more than that – surf it! Even it’s waist high – surf it! Have fun in the ocean. It’s too hot, and we’re going to be flat for a bit again. Surf whatever you can.