Wax em up fellas! Short round of swell for Rincon.
In the middle of our super hot flat summer we now have a couple of days to look forward to for surf. We should have some swell in the water through Monday so get to it! The wave models have consistently putting a medium period swell from the NNE here in Rincon. It should be fun for everyone, beginners, shortboarders (at the right spot and tide), longboarders, etc… I hope everyone was safe during Erika and have some fun out there this weekend! Tomorrow is supposed to have the most size and the winds won’t be too bad. The north side of the island should be head high. Here in Rincon we’ll probably stay around chest high.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.