Rincon, Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – September 2, 2015

Looks like more surf on the horizon.

We won’t have anything big but some more background swell should linger on over the next couple of days. The north side of the island could be great! I’m starting to see some long period swell on the buoys and the winds are forecast to be very light this week. Go north and surf your brains out. Here in Rincon we could see some knee to waist high longboard waves continue to roll in for the next few days.

Flat for the weekend and then hope around the corner.

The models are starting put another waist to chest high swell on our beaches early next week. It might stick around for most of next week if it pans out. I’m happy to see more glimmers of hope on the models. It’s been another long, flat, hot summer here in Rincon. It can get depressing sometimes. Surfer’s depression was not added to the DSM-5 as a recognized disorder, but I’m sure it will inevitably become some surfer grad’s student’s thesis and find it’s way there in the next update (or at least it should). Maybe then we could see some prescription surf trips!

Using Automated Forecast Tools:

Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.