Get ready for another major swell event!
We look to be hit with a two pronged attack. First off we will see some NNW swell fill in Tuesday evening and by Wednesday morning we should be double overhead on sets. Thursday will remain big and Friday might drop down a notch or two while round two works its way to the island. It looks like the entire Atlantic well be pushed at Puerto Rico again for the weekend so expect to see really big short period swell again and a lot of wind. I’ve noticed the nooks and crannies have been liking the shorter period swells with the higher wave heights. They will be the best call again since wind blockage will be necessary. Tres is going to fire for several days. The swell should last into early next week.
I’m not kidding. Don’t overestimate your abilities and don’t underestimate the danger out there. It is very dangerous. Let’s try and get through this swell safely and still have fun. If you’ve had the same leash on your board for a long time you might want to consider getting a new one (or two).
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.