The surf in Rincon is about to be all time.
And there is nothing I can do about it. This is hard to watch. We have a massive storm bombing out in our swell window and it will backtrack and hover even longer in our swell window. This hurts. We’re talking solid long period NW swell and SW winds for the first two days (Friday and Saturday). Double overhead sets on Friday and 2-4ft overhead on Saturday. Every north facing beach will be on fire. The after party will be 4 straight days of 2ft overhead glass. This is going to be one of the best major swell events of the season. Unfortunately we’re all on quarantine. PR full lock down is still in effect. It’s important to remember that isolation is pretty much our only weapon against the coronavirus on this island. But I would be lying if I said it didn’t hurt.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.