More small surf for Rincon, Puerto Rico.
It looks like high pressure will stay in mid-latitudes and all of the cold-fronts will stay at higher latitudes. This means for the short term we will continue to see some small surf here in Rincon. The conditions will remain perfect for beginners and learners. Because the stronger fronts will stay at higher latitudes, we don’t have any sizeable surf in the next 7 days of our forecast period. However, there is a steady flow of winter storms on satellite imagery so any dip in the jet-stream could force a classic cold-front swell down our way by mid December. If not, the most likely scenario is that we continue to see weaker long-period NE and ENE swell for the next two weeks. Seasonally we’re overdue for a stronger cold-front swell so I’m hoping one of the winter storms dips down.CLICK HERE to see the full write-up: Rincon, Puerto Rico Two Months After Hurricane Maria and decide whether or not Rincon is right for you this season.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.