Get ready to surf!
We should have a steady supply of waves during the coming week. Look for the start of the swell to begin showing up by Monday afternoon and last through the weekend. The bigger days could see sets in the 2ft overhead range. Wind protection will be necessary as the wind forecast is looking to pick up as it usually does in December. The change will be welcome as it should serve to cool down the temperatures a bit from the high 90’s we’ve been seeing just about everyday. The mornings have been plenty cool lately but that mid-day sun is brutal. With all of that wind we will also have a shorter period in the waves so the super protected spots might not see any action. Morning sessions will most likely be the solution. CLICK HERE to see the full write-up: Rincon, Puerto Rico Two Months After Hurricane Maria and decide whether or not Rincon is right for you this season.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.