Get ready to surf!
What you see above is a graphical representation of the current surface winds and wind currents. Note the long fetch setting up perfectly in our swell window. The cold-front is starting to generate a swell that should last all week. We should start off with surf out of the NW starting this afternoon/evening. Each day the swell angle will shift clockwise. By Thursday, the longer period North swell should be here. Wednesday might be a better quality wave though with a little more west in it and still a decent period. NE swell leftovers will fade out into the weekend. This is a great classic cold-front setup. Get ready to surf! The biggest days will be Wednesday and Thursday with double overhead sets. The other days should be head high and glassy with bigger sets.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.