Rincon, Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – Nov 7, 2017

Plenty of weather, not a lot of surf for Rincon, Puerto Rico.

Though the weather maps stay active, high pressure keeps guarding our swell window for the most part. Tropical Storm Rina won’t really serve to make much swell and will drift off into oblivion. The weak cold-fronts can’t get a good fetch going. The storms in the far reaches of the North Atlantic are hugging Canada too much for long period NE swell to form. Our next shot at decent surf looks like a medium to weak front that should pull off the US with enough force to send some chest to head high cold-front swell at us with a scheduled arrival for Nov 13,2017. That far out, many things can change for the better or worse so now that I’m back in communication again (I hope), I should be able to update more often from here on out.

Using Automated Forecast Tools:

Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.