Rincon Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – Oct 9, 2017

Continued Surf for Rincon, Puerto Rico.

There is no shortage of work to be done and keeping up with chores around the house is it’s own job, but if you’re about to lose your mind, go surf. There’s plenty of smaller scale surf in the ocean to cool off. We’ll have a passing tropical blob and south winds over the next few days so expect north facing beaches to be fun. Driving around still isn’t the best idea, but if you’re already on the north side of the island, you’ll see some head high surf with bigger sets. Rincon should be waist to chest high. I’m constantly reminded of how fortunate we are to be alive and how little is really necessary to stay alive, everything else is comfort. The simpler one can live the happier he/she will be right now. The island is bouncing back with many trees throwing out new leaves seemingly overnight somehow. Let’s all keep working together and grow back stronger and better than ever.

Using Automated Forecast Tools:

Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.