Hurricane Nicole will continue to send surf our way!
Wow what a storm! Even though she will be going extra-tropical over the next few days she will remain a massive weather system with heavy winds across much of the North Atlantic. Here’s what the NHC has to say about it:
Swells from Nicole will affect Bermuda and portions of the U.S. east coast and Atlantic Canada during the next couple of days. By early next week, wave models suggest that long-period swell from Nicole will radiate outward and affect much of the North Atlantic basin.
So basically, get ready to surf some more! The only downside to all of this is that the winds are forecast to stay out of the south which means that temperatures will be hot, hot, hot! However, as far as surf goes, it will be EPIC! A lot of north facing spots will be all time once again and a lot of the exposed spots on the north side of the island that can throw a barrel will be all-time. I hope to get some good coverage on this swell. Keep checking the galleries.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.