Nonstop Surf for Rincon – OH YEAH!
Seriously, when I took a look at the satellite loops this evening I couldn’t be happier. We have a steady flow of surf generating weather and the models are picking up on the closest ones giving us more NNE and NNW swell. I honestly see a couple weeks worth of surf based on current satellite imagery, but it just might be the stoke talking. This past swell has been so ridiculously perfect and fun. This has been a great season! Look for Monday and Tuesday to mellow out a little bit to a more friendly size but still be really fun. We should still see some head high surf with decent power. Monday will still see some nice overhead sets linger on. Another pulse up should arrive by mid-week and slowly fade a notch each day from Friday through the weekend.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.