Rincon, Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – August 24, 2015

Hurricane Danny degenerates into a remnant low with no surf.

As of 11am AST Danny, the tiniest hurricane I’ve ever seen completely degenerated into a remnant low. The southeast corner of the island is currently flat and the rest of Puerto Rico is flat as well. As the remnants pass tomorrow, we should get plenty of rain and come light winds. The southeast still might see some small swell tomorrow, but the conditions will most likely be nasty.

Look at the storm behind him for another shot at waves.

The storm system behind Danny is working itself together and might form another storm that could possibly be a wave-maker for Puerto Rico. NOAA’s WaveWatch III seems to like it. It’s consistently had it pegged as a wave maker for the coming weekend. We’ll have see if that pans out.

Using Automated Forecast Tools:

Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.