No Surf For Rincon – Plenty of small surf around the island.
We will be stuck in a steady flow of hot, humid air and east winds. This summer is going to be really, really, ridiculously hot. However, the weather looks to be lining up with some surf possibilities for the summertime spots around the island. Several breaks on the north side of the island should see some waist to chest high surf over the next couple of weeks and the southeast should be fun as another tropical wave will be approaching in a 3 or 4 days. The water isn’t super hot yet and the fish seem to be loving the current conditions. Several schools of just about everything are coming pretty close to shore. So basically go exploring if you can and you’ll probably find waves. If not, then take a paddleboard and a fishing pole and go catch some fish. Other fun options include spearing, lobstering, or going to one of the many waterfalls in PR. Whatever you do, don’t just sit at home sweating your face off.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.