Rincon is hungry for surf! Possible waist high background swell for the weekend.
Remembering that we are in June, the fact that we have ANYTHING on the radar is good news. This weekend should have perfect surf lesson waves here in Rincon with glassy conditions in the mornings. If you’re coming down with your family for a summer vacation, it’s a great time to take the kids out surfing! If you’re just trying to beat the heat and boredom and have a longboard, you’ll probably have a good time too as the background pulse fills in Friday (hopefully). If you need more to get your blood pumping then go up north. You’ll most likely find semi-clean conditions in the morning and more size. Starting from Today, there should be waist to chest high surf through the weekend. Sometimes even if it’s chop you can have fun up there with enough size and the right spot.
No, not yet. Though it’s sooooo hot right now I really don’t think the season will be as slow as is currently forecast unless the earth really does use a different mechanism for dispersing ocean heat like it did last year. We’ll have to wait and see. If the shear lightens up at any point in a prime spot I can see formation having plenty of heat to feed on.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.