Rincon, Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – June 8, 2015

Possible Surf – Wednesday and Thursday might have some background swell.

If you notice in the image above all the main waves in the ocean are pointed away from Rincon. The North side of the island can pick up some of that hard East angle, but it’s just not going to happen for Rincon over the the next couple of days. However, on Wednesday and Thursday the models have been picking up on a background swell pushing through that might make some fun waist to chest high waves. For June, that’s a great opportunity and I really hope it happens.

What about the Tropics? Any surf from Tropical systems on the way?

The tropics remain quiet as far as formation goes, but there has been plenty of open waves passing by. Be on the lookout for any decent waves passing by on the satellite images below. The southeast corner of the island can get fun when a decent wave passes below the island and Isabela can get fun when a wave passes to the north of the island. Right now there isn’t much going on though.

Using Automated Forecast Tools:

Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.