Rincon, Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – Mar 1, 2018
Massive Swell Event Begins Formation get ready to surf Rincon!
I doubted this thing for a while, but the models have been dead set on it’s formation long before the weather elements to make this event really existed prominently. Today is the first physical confirmation that the elements will actually behave as forecast. Notice the arrows around the low pressures in the NE United States? See how it more resembles an NFL down the middle running play? What your seeing forecast is something that just about every surfer has ever talked about happening, “what if, like, all the low pressures got together and formed one giant storm.” Historically, this does not happen very often in the manner that we are about to see. Appreciate it folks, we’re going to see something awesome happen here. The high pressure is already moving out more east and leaving the pocket open for the first batch of low pressure to hit the ocean. All the other nearby lows appear to be moving toward that pocket. Within a couple of days we should see for certain if we end up with the super-storm or not. As I watch the latest satellite loops I almost can’t believe my eyes – it’s actually happening. If everything stays on track we should see very large waves for the entire work week next week. Monday and Tuesday could be the biggest days of the season with sets well over triple overhead. Every tucked away nook and cranny should be surfable so pick your favorite “it only breaks when it’s huge” spot and have fun. If you are a big wave surfer, get ready for some of the biggest Tres Palmas we’ve seen in a while.
Short Term Forecast
We should continue to see perfect overhead surf with double overhead sets on Friday and Saturday with some head high to 2ft overhead sets on Sunday. The wind is forecast to calm down a bit, but with the super storm forming I can’t imagine the high pressure won’t have something to do with that as well so I wouldn’t be surprised to see a bit more wind from the high pressure than anticipated. The latest forecast change puts some south wind in the mix which is common when a big storm and NW swell is being made. The north side of Rincon might be the place to be at times.
That’s five exclamation marks. The massive swell event is going to create some very dangerous conditions in the ocean. There is always risk every time we paddle out. Even more so when the conditions are big. A fool ignores the risk, a wise person anticipates and prepares for the risk. How’s your leash doing? How’s the string that attaches your leash to your board? How long can you hold your breathe while getting pounded? Can you swim back to shore safely if the situation arises? Do you know the layout of the reef well enough to avoid getting pounded mercilessly? Everyone please be as safe as you can. If you’re out of your league, don’t paddle out and become a danger to yourself and others.