More surf for Rincon, Puerto Rico.
We won’t see any more massive conditions for a while, but at least we should continue to have decent waves over the next few days. The wind is forecast to blow out of the south over the next few days too which should keep the north side of Rincon glassy. This should also help keep crowds controlled a bit. The west facing beaches will still probably have a clean morning session on offer which would really be helpful for spreading out the crowds. Expect waist to chest high conditions with head high sets to persist through the middle of next week. Notice how the spectral wave analysis looks like it’s drunk? There’s a lot of commotion in the ocean and it’s going to make it hard to peg exactly how the waves will be breaking, but I believe it’s safe to say that we’ll have a little bit of everything. This is good because with a variety of rights and lefts and nothing but open coastline, there’s bound to be something for everyone.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.