A couple days of surf and then back to summer.
I’m stoked to be able to get in the water for a couple of days this late in May. And honestly, I’m surprised we’re still seeing storm systems pull off the states this late in the season. After this pulse fades out tomorrow evening we might have some knee high leftovers for Wednesday. Tomorrow should still be waist to chest high though at the most exposed breaks. Everything long range just points at the usual wind chop on the North side of the island and small to flat conditions here in Rincon. Anything can happen though. We might have a good setup to get more long period NE swell on the north side of the island a week out or so.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.