What if i told you there was this wave… and by the time it hits Puerto Rico, it’s going to be massive…
Ok so we might not see 40 ft waves like the classic film, In God’s Hands, but we will definitly get a decent sized swell with sets in the double overhead range and bigger. With the NW angle and buoys going berserk right now, this swell is going to rage once it hits! Every nook and cranny spot will be breaking on the right tide. Wind blockage will be important at first as the swell fills in. A lot of spots will probably be maxed out too. I think we’re going to see bigger waves than some of the models are calling for – this based on what I’m seeing on the actual data from the bouys in our swell window. We will have waves all week. Expect overhead surf by tomorrow evening and Double Overhead conditions with bigger sets on Tuesday. Wednesday will be the 2-4ft overhead with double overhead sets day. Thursday will drop off to head high with some bigger sets and we will fade out into the weekend with smaller conditions.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.