Nonstop Surf – Rincon is set to go off!
The most recent coldfront has dipped off the states at a lower latitude and should give us a nice run of swell. The current NE swell should last through the rest of the weekend and into early next week. The angle isn’t the best for Rincon, but the period is moderate enough to keep some waist to chest high surf on tap. Tuesday might be fairly small. On Wednesday and Thursday expect a decent sized NNW swell to fill in with some overhead surf. The angle should be good to get a lot of the nooks and crannies working. The winds should be rather calm the entire time too which should open up a lot of opportunities for surf spots every morning. The weather has been refreshingly cool at night and in the morning. That is such a relief after the brutal heat of the summer that seemed like it would never end.
Using Automated Forecast Tools:
Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.