Rincon, Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – Nov 29, 2014

This is what a week of waves looks like on a weather chart.

I knew November had one last big swell left in it. And sure enough, on the last day of November, we will start to see the front-runners of a week of swell. Tomorrow afternoon should see some chest to head high surf. Monday will be the biggest with some surf near double overhead. After that the Angle of the swell will be hard NE with heavy wind from high pressure. This will result in chest high waves from mid-week into the weekend with clean conditions at the wind-blocked beaches of Rincon. The weekend may see another pulse of NE kickback. I told you December was going to rage!

Using Automated Forecast Tools:

Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.