Rincon Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – Sept 8, 2019

Fun NW swell continues in Rincon, Puerto Rico – Go Surf!

The buoys are already jumping. The past few days have been super fun with a lot of spots offering long lines. NW angled swell is ideal for Rincon, and when the winds are dead just about every spot is good. Our swell event is about to enter the grand finale over the next two days. We should see some 2-4ft overhead surf on Monday and Tuesday morning. Tuesday evening will already see the surf start to fade and we’ll be left with leftovers on Wednesday and Thursday. In the long run, a lot is up in the air because tropical systems can be hard to predict. We have a lot of tropical activity so it’s unlikely this will be the last tropical swell we see this season. We’ll keep you up to date as the weather progresses. Go surf!

Using Automated Forecast Tools:

Remember that no matter what a computer model tells you, what you see on the beach might be completely different. That's why i go take pictures of the beach every day. These tools help give an idea of what to expect, but weather prediction is not always exact especially the further out you try to forecast. Surf forecasting takes into account the general correlation between past weather data and resulting surf conditions. Another thing to keep in mind is the difference between actual swell height and the face height of the rideable wave it creates. For example. When the waves are forecast to have a 6ft swell at 13 seconds or higher with a NW angle we normally get waves that most people would call double over-head on sets. Swell angle is also important, especially for shorter period swell (9-11 seconds). For example 3ft at 11 seconds from the NW will make a bigger wave than 4ft at 9 seconds from the NE. Normally longer period swell (13+ seconds) will be more powerful and keep the surf size a little better even if the angle isn't a direct hit to Rincon. Generally any swell less than 9 seconds is super weak here in Rincon unless it has a lot of west in it. Also, most NE swell under 12 seconds is weak and mushy. 2ft at 8 seconds is generally small to flat. ENE swell will almost never make it into Rincon unless it was something like 10ft at 18 seconds from the ENE.