Rincon, Puerto Rico Surf Forecast – Sept 8, 2023
Hurricane Lee is About to Lay Some Massive Surf Down!
It’s September and we finally had a drop in the wind shear with a long track storm that pulled off Africa. With the insanely hot water temps, and no wind shear around, Hurricane Lee turned into a Category 5 Hurricane overnight. Intensity will fluctuate randomly from this point, but the wind-field will continue to expand and the eye of the storm will go through regular replacement cycles. The forecast path of the storm basically has it meandering right in our swell window. High surf advisories will be in effect. This swell is going to rage. I am pretty amped that we’ve had very consistent surf without the usual crowds that have destroyed my stoke the past few seasons. I got to surf a few days ago without having to dodge a single foam board. It was amazing. We should have literally a week of perfect waves (maybe longer) from this storm once the swell shows up. The north side of the island will see the goodies first, probably at the end of the weekend. Then starting next week we should have some NE angled long period swell for most of next week in the head high to a couple feet overhead range. If Lee really does stay due north of the island and continue to pump, we could see some N and NNW long period swell show up next weekend. We could easily see some double-overhead action. There will be plenty of spots to surf and the vibe is finally pretty chill right now. Don’t mess that up. Everyone play nice and have fun.